Personal Care 101: DIY Hair - Shampoos, Conditioners, and pH Balance

Achieving healthy hair naturally often involves understanding its delicate pH balance. Commercial hair products can sometimes disrupt this balance, leading to issues like dryness, frizz, or scalp irritation. DIY hair care, utilizing natural ingredients, offers a cost-effective and customizable alternative to maintain optimal hair health.

Understanding Hair pH and its Importance

1. pH Scale:

• The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14.
• A pH of 7 is neutral.
• Values below 7 are acidic.
• Values above 7 are alkaline (basic).

2. Healthy Hair & Scalp pH:

• Healthy hair generally has a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5, making it slightly acidic.
• The scalp's natural pH is around 5.5.
• The hair shaft itself has a pH closer to 3.67.

3. Why pH Matters:

• Cuticle Health: The outermost layer of your hair, the cuticle, lies flat when the hair's pH is in the optimal acidic range. This smooth cuticle reflects light, resulting in shiny, less frizzy hair and helps prevent tangles.
• Moisture Retention: A closed cuticle also helps to seal in moisture, preventing dryness and breakage.
• Scalp Health: Maintaining a slightly acidic scalp pH discourages the growth of bacteria and fungi, which can lead to issues like dandruff, itchiness, and other scalp conditions. It also supports the scalp's natural acid mantle, a protective barrier.

4. Alkaline vs. Acidic Effects:

• Alkaline (High pH): Products with a high pH (e.g., some strong shampoos, baking soda, hair dyes, bleaches, traditional soaps) can cause the hair cuticle to swell and lift. This leads to increased friction, frizz, dryness, breakage, and accelerated color fading. It can also irritate the scalp, disrupt its natural microbiome, and potentially contribute to conditions like seborrheic dermatitis. The higher the pH above the hair's natural range, the more damaging it can be, weakening protein bonds within the hair structure.
• Acidic (Low pH): While beneficial within the optimal range (4.5-5.5), excessively acidic products (e.g., below 3.67 for the hair shaft, or too concentrated acidic rinses) can also cause scalp irritation, dryness, and potentially damage the hair, making it brittle. The goal is a slightly acidic pH, not extremely acidic.

DIY Shampoos: Considerations and Recipes

Traditional homemade shampoos often use ingredients that can be alkaline, such as baking soda or some castile soaps, potentially disrupting hair pH. It's crucial to balance these with acidic components or choose pH-balanced recipes from the outset.

1. General DIY Shampoo Approach (when using potentially alkaline bases):

• Washing Agent (Surfactant):
  • Liquid Castile Soap: While popular, undiluted castile soap can have a pH of 8-9, which is significantly alkaline for hair. If using, it's essential to follow up immediately and consistently with an acidic rinse (like ACV).
  • Other Options: Soap berries (soapnuts) are a natural, gentler alternative. Some recipes also incorporate ingredients like full-fat coconut milk for a milder cleansing and conditioning effect.
• Water: Use filtered or distilled water to avoid mineral buildup from tap water, which can leave residue and affect hair feel.
• Optional Additives:
  • Vinegar (e.g., Apple Cider Vinegar): Crucial for balancing the pH when using alkaline washing agents. Can be added directly to the shampoo or used as a separate post-wash rinse.
  • Essential Oils: For scent and additional benefits (e.g., rosemary for hair growth, tea tree for scalp health, lavender for calming, citrus oils for oil control). Use 10-20 drops per 250ml (1 cup) of shampoo.
  • Moisturizing Agents: Olive oil, coconut oil, honey, aloe vera gel can be added to counteract potential drying effects and provide nourishment.
  • Thickeners (if desired): Xanthan gum or gelatin can be used to improve consistency, though often not necessary for simple rinse-out shampoos.
• Note on Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate):
  • HIGHLY DISCOURAGED for regular use. While mentioned historically in DIY hair care, baking soda's high pH (around 8-9) makes it generally unsuitable for regular hair washing. Modern understanding highlights that it can be very drying, abrasive, and damaging to the hair cuticle over time, leading to frizz, breakage, and scalp irritation.
  • Limited Use (Clarifying): If used at all, it should be reserved for very occasional clarifying (e.g., once a month) to remove extreme product buildup, followed immediately by an acidic rinse. Even then, commercial clarifying shampoos are often a safer and more effective alternative. For those with dry, damaged, or color-treated hair, baking soda should be avoided entirely.

2. pH-Balanced DIY Shampoo Recipes:

These recipes aim for a gentler, more pH-friendly approach from the start, minimizing the need for drastic pH correction afterward.

• Coconut Milk & Castile Soap Shampoo (with pH balancing elements):
  • Ingredients:
    • 60ml (1/4 cup) full-fat coconut milk (homemade is better than canned, provides moisture and helps with pH balance)
    • 75ml (1/3 cup) pure aloe vera gel (Optional, pH balancing, conditioning. If added, consider freezing for longer shelf life or making smaller batches).
    • 60ml (1/4 cup) distilled water (for dilution)
    • 60ml (1/4 cup) liquid castile soap (unscented, pH ~ 8.9)
    • 20 drops of blend of essential oils of choice
    • 6-8 drops of a citrus essential oil (lemon, lime, or sweet orange) (Optional, for controlling oily hair)
    • Optional Humectants/Moisturizers (if shampoo dries your hair):
      • 2 teaspoons honey
      • 2 teaspoons avocado oil
      • 1 tsp safflower oil (add more if desired)
      • 1/2 teaspoon melted coconut oil (also adds lubrication)
      • 1/2 teaspoon jojoba, grapeseed, or any other light vegetable oil
      • 1/2 teaspoon olive or almond oil (optional, for dry hair types)
      • 1 teaspoon vegetable glycerin (also gives the shampoo a little more “body”)
  • Directions:
    • Combine all ingredients in an old shampoo bottle, jar, or pump soap/foaming dispenser.
    • Shake well to mix.
    • Shake vigorously before each use.
    • Use a teaspoon of the shampoo to wash your hair.
    • Gently massage into the scalp and hair for 1-2 minutes.
    • Rinse completely.
  • Notes/Tips:
    • This recipe still uses castile soap, so a follow-up acidic rinse (like ACV) is highly recommended, especially if you experience any dryness or frizz. While coconut milk and aloe vera gel can help buffer the pH, they may not fully counteract the alkalinity of castile soap for all hair types.
    • This shampoo generally produces less lather than commercial shampoos due to the absence of synthetic foaming agents. Do not measure effectiveness by lather.
    • Cost-effectiveness: Low to moderate, depending on the quality and source of ingredients (e.g., homemade coconut milk).
    • Preparation Time: Quick (under 5-10 minutes).
    • Shelf Life: Due to the water and fresh ingredients, this shampoo has a limited shelf life. Maximum shelf life is 7 days if stored in the refrigerator. Freezing individual portions could extend this to approximately 30 days, but consistency might change upon thawing. It's best to make small batches for 3-5 days of use.
• Honey Citrus Shampoo (Castile Soap-Free):
  • Ingredients:
    • 1 cup (240ml) filtered/distilled water
    • 5 tablespoons raw honey (pH 3.4-6.1, acts as a humectant and gentle cleanser)
    • 5 drops lemon essential oil (for scent and potential oil control)
    • 5 drops melaleuca (tea tree) essential oil (for scalp health)
  • Directions: Combine water, honey, and essential oils, mix well. Transfer to a glass bottle with a dispenser. Shake well before each use.
  • Benefits: Balances pH, restores moisture, may help reduce dandruff, gentle cleansing.
  • Cost-effectiveness: Low.
  • Preparation Time: Very quick (under 2 minutes).
  • Shelf Life: Due to the water content, this shampoo will also have a short shelf life (approx. 5-7 days in the refrigerator). Make small batches.

DIY Conditioners: Nourishing and Smoothing

Homemade conditioners focus on moisturizing, detangling, and smoothing the hair cuticle, often with a slightly acidic pH to help restore balance after washing.

1. Core Ingredients for DIY Conditioners:

• Base Ingredients (for moisture and texture): Plain yogurt (contains lactic acid, helps pH), avocado (rich in healthy fats), banana (vitamins, potassium), coconut cream/milk (intense moisture), shea butter. These provide fats, proteins, and vitamins that nourish hair.
• Oils (for shine, detangling, and preventing greasiness): Olive oil, coconut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil. Choose based on hair type (lighter oils for fine hair, heavier for thick/dry).
• Humectants (for attracting and retaining moisture): Honey, aloe vera gel/juice.
• Acidic pH Balancers: Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) is paramount for restoring the hair's natural acidity after washing, especially with alkaline cleansers.

2. Optional Additives:

• Essential Oils: For fragrance and targeted benefits (e.g., rosemary for hair growth, lavender for soothing).
• Vitamin E oil: Antioxidant benefits for hair health and helps to slow down the oxidation of carrier oils, slightly extending shelf life in oil-based products.

3. DIY Conditioner Recipes:

• Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) Rinse (Imperative for pH Restoration):

  • The Concept: This rinse is "imperative for restoring the pH of your hair and smoothing the hair cuticle. It will also keep your hair from feeling greasy/sticky after using homemade shampoos." This is especially crucial after using any alkaline cleanser like castile soap or if your hair feels rough after washing.
  • Ingredients: Apple cider vinegar (ACV) and water.
  • Directions: Mix 1 part ACV to 5-10 parts water. A common starting ratio is 1:5. You can adjust the dilution based on your hair and scalp's needs and sensitivity. Experiment to see what works best for you (e.g., 1:10 for very fine or easily dried hair). Apply after shampooing, gently massage into hair and scalp, leave for 1-2 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with cool water to further seal the cuticle.
  • pH of ACV: Undiluted ACV typically has a pH between 2-3, making it an excellent acidic rinse when diluted to bring the hair cuticle back to its optimal range (4.5-5.5).
  • Cost-effectiveness: Very low, as ACV is inexpensive and widely available.
  • Preparation Time: Very quick to prepare and use.
  • Shelf Life: Diluted ACV rinse should ideally be made fresh for each use or kept in the refrigerator for a few days. Undiluted ACV has a very long shelf life.

• Coconut Cream All-Natural Deep Conditioner:

  • Concept: Coconut cream is rich in fats and provides intense moisture and nourishment.
  • Example Ingredients: 1/2 cup full-fat coconut cream (canned, unsweetened), 1-2 tablespoons raw honey, 1 teaspoon carrier oil (like olive or jojoba), and 5-10 drops optional essential oils.
  • Directions: Blend ingredients until smooth. Apply to damp hair, focusing on mid-lengths and ends. Leave for 15-30 minutes (you can cover with a shower cap for deeper penetration), then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
  • Cost-effectiveness: Moderate, as coconut cream can be slightly more expensive than other bases.
  • Preparation Time: Preparation takes a few minutes, application and waiting time longer (20-40 minutes total).
  • Shelf Life: Make fresh for each use or store in the refrigerator for 2-3 days max.

• Yogurt, Avocado, or Banana Based Conditioner (Hair Masks):

  • Concept: "Start by raiding your fridge for the base ingredient (think plain yogurt, avocado or even banana), then mix in a few drops of olive or coconut oil to fight tangles, adding in a squeeze of honey, if you like." These ingredients provide natural fats, proteins, and vitamins.
  • Example Ingredients: 1/2 cup plain yogurt (full-fat is best), OR 1/2 mashed ripe avocado, OR 1/2 mashed ripe banana. Add 1-2 teaspoons olive or coconut oil, and 1 teaspoon honey (optional).
  • Directions: Blend all ingredients until completely smooth to avoid chunks in hair (especially with banana). Apply to damp hair, leave for 15-30 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. May require a light shampoo if hair feels heavy from the oils.
  • Cost-effectiveness: Very low, utilizing common kitchen staples.
  • Preparation Time: Quick preparation (under 5 minutes), plus application and waiting time.
  • Shelf Life: Make fresh for each use. These spoil quickly.

Benefits of Natural/DIY Hair Care

• Cost-Effectiveness: DIY treatments generally cost significantly less than commercial products, as you often use readily available and inexpensive kitchen ingredients.
• Natural Ingredients: Avoids harsh chemicals, sulfates, parabens, silicones, and synthetic fragrances often found in commercial products, which can irritate the scalp, strip hair of natural oils, or cause buildup.
• Customization: You can tailor ingredients to your specific hair type (oily, dry, fine, thick, curly, color-treated, etc.) and concerns (dandruff, frizz, growth, damage).
• Reduced Environmental Impact: Less packaging and chemical waste, contributing to a more sustainable lifestyle.
• Scalp Health: Natural ingredients are often gentler on the scalp, helping to maintain its natural microbiome and pH balance, leading to a healthier environment for hair growth.
• Restores Shine and Softness: Proper pH balance and nourishing ingredients help to smooth the hair cuticle, leading to shinier, softer, and more manageable hair.
• Reduces Product Buildup: Simpler formulations can minimize residue accumulation on hair and scalp.

Important Considerations and Tips:

• Experimentation: "Experiment and see what works for you." Hair types vary greatly. What works for one person might not work for another. Start with small batches and adjust ratios and ingredients based on your hair's response.
• Consistency: DIY hair care often requires consistency to see noticeable results, unlike some commercial products that promise instant (though often superficial) effects through synthetic coatings. Be patient during the "detox" period.
• Storage and Shelf Life: Natural ingredients spoil faster than commercial products, which are formulated with strong preservatives.
  • Water-based DIY products: Generally have a very short shelf life (a few days to a week in the refrigerator, e.g., 3-7 days). It's best to make small batches for immediate use.
  • Oil-based masks (without water): Can last longer if stored in a cool, dark place, often for several weeks to months, depending on the freshness of the oils. Adding Vitamin E oil can help prevent rancidity of the oils.
  • Preservatives: For longer shelf life in water-containing products, natural preservatives like grapefruit seed extract, rosemary antioxidant extract, or essential oils with antimicrobial properties (e.g., tea tree, lavender) can be considered, but their effectiveness can vary, and proper formulation for preservation can be complex. For true stability, broader-spectrum cosmetic preservatives might be needed, which defeats some of the "all-natural" DIY purpose. The safest approach for most DIY users is to make fresh, small batches.
• Rinsing Thoroughly: Always rinse homemade shampoos and conditioners thoroughly to prevent residue, which can make hair feel sticky, heavy, or dull.
• Patch Testing: If you have sensitive skin or allergies, always perform a patch test (apply a small amount to an inconspicuous area like the inner arm) 24-48 hours before applying any new DIY concoction to your entire scalp or hair.
• Measuring pH: For precise control over your DIY formulations, especially when trying to maintain a specific pH, consider using:
  • pH Test Strips: Inexpensive and easy to use, but provide a less precise reading. Dip the strip into the liquid mixture and compare the color to the provided chart.
  • Digital pH Meter: More expensive but offers precise readings to one decimal point. Requires calibration and proper cleaning.
  • Note: pH can only be measured in solutions containing water.
• Professional Advice: For persistent scalp conditions (e.g., severe dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, hair loss) or severe hair issues, consult a dermatologist or trichologist. DIY remedies are complementary and not a substitute for medical diagnosis or treatment.
• "Detox" Period: There is often a "detox" period (of 2-3 weeks or more) when transitioning from commercial to natural hair care. During this time, your hair may feel stiff, sticky, oily, heavy, or dry. This is because your hair and scalp are rebalancing after years of being stripped and coated by synthetic products. Give your hair a few weeks to adjust and for your scalp's natural sebum production to regulate. This concept is often associated with "no-poo" or "low-poo" methods.
• Understanding Lather: Do not measure any shampoo's effectiveness by the lather and foam it produces. In regular shampoos, foam is often obtained by harsh chemicals and detergents (like sulfates). Natural DIY shampoos, having avoided these, will produce significantly less lather. Less lather does not mean less clean.
• Avoiding "Coating": Synthetic products in commercial shampoos and conditioners artificially coat the hair with plastic or protein polymers to make it look and feel undamaged. The more damaged the hair, the more porous it becomes; the more porous the hair, the more it absorbs these polymers. DIY care aims to genuinely nourish and support hair health rather than superficially coat it.
• Frequency of Washing: Try shampooing less often (e.g., every other day or 2-3 times per week) to allow your scalp's natural oils to regulate. This is a common practice in natural hair care and can reduce irritation and dryness.

Specific Hair Treatments & Rinses:

1. Clarifying Rinse:

• Clarifying Purpose: Clarifying aims to remove product or pollutant buildup from your hair. Historically, baking soda was suggested, but current understanding highlights its damaging effects due to its high pH.
• Revised Clarifying Approach (Avoid Baking Soda for this purpose): Instead of baking soda, use an ACV rinse (as described in the DIY conditioners section) for clarifying, or consider a gentle commercial clarifying shampoo once a month. The process of forcing hair's pH up and down dramatically (as with baking soda followed by ACV) is indeed damaging. pH-balanced clarifying shampoos are designed to gently lift buildup without such extreme pH swings.
• If you absolutely choose to use baking soda (caution advised):
  • Frequency: Only 1-2 times per month, maximum.
  • Ingredients: 1-2 cups of warm water with 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar (added after the baking soda application for rinsing).
  • Directions: Mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda with enough water to form a thin paste. Apply this paste to wet hair, focusing on areas with buildup. Let it sit for only a few minutes (1-3 minutes max). Rinse completely. Immediately follow with a diluted apple cider vinegar rinse (1 part ACV to 5-10 parts water) to help close the cuticle and rebalance pH. Rinse the ACV out thoroughly.
  • RISK IDENTIFICATION: This method of clarifying is unethical and generally considered harmful for regular use due to baking soda's high alkalinity and abrasive nature, which can cause significant damage, dryness, frizz, and scalp irritation, especially on fragile, dry, or color-treated hair. It should be understood as a potentially damaging "last resort" for extreme buildup, not a recommended practice. Modern clarifying shampoos are much safer.

2. Dry Shampoo:

• Purpose: To soak up unwanted hair oils when you’re short on time between washes, providing an instant matte look and refreshing the hair.
• Ingredients:
  • Cornstarch (most common and effective)
  • Arrowroot powder
  • Cocoa powder (for darker hair, to avoid white residue)
  • Oat flour (finely ground oats)
  • Baby powder (often cornstarch or talc-based, check ingredients for fragrance)
• Directions: Lightly dust your roots with the powder of your choice. Gently massage into the scalp and roots, then brush through the hair to distribute and remove excess.
• Cost-effectiveness: Very low.
• Preparation Time: Instant.

3. Thickening Rinses:

These rinses aim to add bounce and body to hair.

• Beer Rinse:

  • Purpose: Beer contains hops, malt, and yeast, which can provide proteins and B vitamins to the hair, temporarily plumping the strands and adding shine.
  • Directions: First, shampoo and condition your hair as usual. Take a room temperature hops beer (flat beer is ideal, you can leave it out for a few hours to de-carbonate). Pour it over your hair, ensuring even distribution. Leave it in for a few minutes (e.g., 2-5 minutes). Rinse lightly with cool water. Don't worry about the smell; it usually dissipates as your hair dries.
  • Cost-effectiveness: Low (cost of a beer).
  • Preparation Time: A few minutes.

• Flour/Grain Rinses:

  • Purpose: These rinses act as very gentle cleansers and can add body by coating the hair shaft.
  • Ingredients:
    • Blended whole oats (finely ground) AND/OR cornstarch AND/OR arrowroot powder (use ¾ tablespoon of each, or a total of 2-3 tablespoons).
    • Note: The original text mentions 1 tablespoon baking soda, which is highly discouraged due to its high pH. OMIT BAKING SODA from this recipe.
    • 1 cup (240ml) warm water.
  • Directions: Mix the finely ground oats/cornstarch/arrowroot powder with the warm water. Add more water to obtain the desired thickness. Apply to damp hair, focusing on roots and working down. Gently massage. Rinse completely.
  • Cost-effectiveness: Very low.
  • Preparation Time: Quick (5 minutes).

References:

• http://www.diynatural.com/homemade-shampoo/
• http://wellnessmama.com/3701/natural-shampoo/
• http://www.thankyourbody.com/all-natural-shampoo/
• http://www.thankyourbody.com/ph-balanced-shampoo-recipe/
• http://blackgirllonghair.com/2013/04/3-easy-homemade-shampoos-for-dry-natural-hair/
• http://www.today.com/style/diy-hair-care-recipes-make-your-own-shampoo-conditioner-1D80018502